The Barkhor kora is Lhasa’s inner pilgrim circuit, shaped roughly like an octagon running around the Jokhang Temple. We mixed with the pilgrims and, hey, is that a cowboy, and walked clockwise around the circuit, lined with markets, shops, stalls and street vendors providing every conceivable item a Tibetan could need. Behind is a darchen (prayer flagpole), which marks the spot where Tsongkhapa planted his walking stick in 1409.